As is the case with most water plants, its not if they are invasive, it’s how invasive they are. Lotus can take over a pond in a very short amount of time. This is why we suggest keeping them in round hole-less pots for best maintenance. Any indentation in the container will eventually lead to a tuber wedging into the corner and eventually punching through. The larger the container, often the better. We use 16″x7″ hole-less pots for all but the small lotus.
Lotus can be a touch intimidating to some ponders. You can grow from seed, but quite often a tuber is the best way to grow them. Here is a quick guide to dividing lotus.
Here is a mass of tubers removed from the pot.
You can pull away the fat tubers and clean to make sure you can see parts clearly before dividing.
The yellow circle is the ‘knuckle’, cut behind this point to separate the tuber from the runners. The red circle is the growth tip, this is the most important (and delicate) part of the plant. If this breaks the tuber is probably worthless.
This is a runner, most of the time they will not produce on their own, but a mass can often times have enough food source to create a new lotus. If you have enough fat tubers you can just toss the runners.
Often times we will float the tubers until leaves form. This is not a necessity, but we like to see the tubers produce before we pot them.
Take the tuber and lay in packed soil of a wide low pot (we use hole-less 16″x7″). The tuber will pull itself into the soil as it develops. We often lay a rock on the tuber to anchor the tuber down until it roots itself. Top off with a layer of pea gravel and dampen before dropping into pond.
*Picture to come…
Unlike water lilies, do not fertilize during potting. Do not fertilize until there are aerial leaves. Early fertilization can burn and even kill the plant. With 16″x7″ pots we put three tablets per container. Lotus are heavy feeders and will produce much better if well fertilized approximately every three weeks after aerial leaves begin to form.